La Concha takes 4th place in the global beach ranking. But can a beach that borders a city of 180,000 really be that beautiful?
When I get off at the Amara-Donostia train station, there is nothing to suggest that the sea could be anywhere here, let alone a beach that is said to be the size of more than 13 football pitches. I came by train from Bilbao, the capital of the Spanish Basque Country, known among other things for its spectacular Guggenheim Museum. And here, in the coastal town of Donostia-San Sebastián, around 100 kilometers away, it is said to be the best beach in Europe according to Tripadvisor users.
After getting rid of a few dodgy characters at the train station trying to sell me drugs, I follow the signs towards “Kontxa” – the Basque name for Playa de la Concha, which translates to “mussel beach” in English, a reference to the semi-circle shape the associated bay. Of course, I have already seen Playa de la Concha in photos, but of course you only get a real feeling for how beautiful or “good” a beach is when you are there yourself. That’s why I’m here.
So I start walking, it’s almost always straight ahead. After about 12 minutes, which lead me through rather unspectacular streets, the view of the coast and the sea finally opens up. I walk towards a white railing and suddenly Playa de la Concha is in front of me. My first thought: Crazy how big this beach is! It is not only extremely long (1.35 kilometers) but also quite wide for a city beach (up to 40 meters).
And so it takes a few minutes to get down to the water. The sand under my feet is soft, light and very clean. Since it’s only the beginning of May and I’m a real frostbite, I don’t go swimming, but the sea water looks clear and very clean. And although we are on the Atlantic, thanks to the semi-circular bay, there are only shallow waves. The scenery with the offshore island of Santa Clara and the two local mountains on the left and right is really picturesque.
It takes a little getting used to the fact that the house facades are so close together behind the beach, but you have all the amenities of a city directly at your disposal, i.e. countless bars, restaurants and shops. Just behind the beach there are free changing rooms, showers, toilets and lockers every 100 meters and everything looks very well maintained.
The wide beach promenade with many benches, where street musicians and other artists create a great atmosphere, is particularly beautiful. The beautiful old town is also just around the corner. Here you should definitely try the famous Pintxos de Donostia, a special type of tapas for which the city is famous.
As impressive as the beach is, the question remains whether it really is the best in Europe and the fourth best in the world. Personally, I’ve seen far nicer beaches on my travels, and you have to like the close proximity to the city. But what certainly makes the beach so special for many is the mix of looks, service, cleanliness and immediate availability of urban infrastructure. In addition, the people here, in all the places I have visited in the Basque Country, are very hospitable and open.
The increasing popularity of the beach, not least caused by the top position in the Tripadvisor rankings, naturally also means that more and more holidaymakers from all over the world come to San Sebastián. Anyone looking for solitude is definitely in the wrong place here, because even when I visited in May, when there was still no real bathing weather, the beach was quite crowded. In midsummer, especially during the holiday season, you lie close together.
If you want to enjoy Playa de La Concha to the fullest, you should ideally come in the off-season. Then this place actually fulfills a lot that makes it a real dream beach – and San Sebastiàn is always worthwhile for a short weekend trip.
Plus points: lots of space, clean, soft and light-colored sand, well suited for families with children, good sanitary facilities, good accessibility
Negatives: street noise, little or expensive parking, it can get very crowded in summer
Getting there: The nearest international airports are Bilbao (about 100 kilometers away) and Biarritz (France, about 50 kilometers away). Trains run from both cities to San Sebastián, otherwise a rental car is recommended.
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